Report from St Jean Pied de Port
- Mack James

- Apr 25
- 2 min read
Updated: Apr 25
Hello all Winers
I've learned: never say anything, never write anything, if you've had some wine recently. You will say something stupid and you'll regret it. Well, here goes. I just tipped some back with a chap from Holland, and I'm gonna write something anyway. To lessen the risk of saying stupid things, I'll do it in point form.
TRAVEL
So far, 2 plane rides, 2 train rides, a day knocking around Paris, another day in St Jean Pied de Port. A medical emergency on both flights, with consequent delays. The second flight (Calgary to Paris) was fun. Sat beside a guy from Esquimalt who did forestry in BC for his career and knew Bob Duncan. Chatted a lot during the flight. Also read Malcolm Gladwell's latest, which cost forty bucks in Calgary.
Missed a train connection in Paris, which meant I had to take an overnight in a sleeper unit. Glad I did; it was an experience, let me tell ya.
And then another train ( 1 1/2 hrs) to where I am now.
I have never been in Europe before; everything you lay eyes on is a first. I'm sure you all know what that is like.
FRANCE
Lots of people smoke here. I'd forgotten the smell. Kinda like it, to tell the truth. The restaurants have weird hours. No food before 7 or so, not much after 9. I can already see my ribs.
The cars are all Renault and Peugot and Citroen...lots of diesel, some vw and bmw, a couple of Ford vans. No Teslas.
The town where I am is a tourist hub and an agricultural hub. Result: lots of heavy machinery making its way just feet away from cafe tables. My favorite: a large tractor pulling an aromatic trailer of manure, right past the table where I was having a beer. For some reason, that made me very happy.
LODGING
I am staying at the Hotel des Pyrenees. A refuge for sure, but ungodly expensive. Probably on the net somewhere. I will be staying in crowded dorms henceforth. Can't afford to live like aristocracy.
PEOPLE
So far, I have run into:
A forestry guy from Victoria. Very interesting fella.
A brother / sister duo from the Kootenays, in their sixties. They are both intelligent and kind-hearted. Seen them two or three times, and will again.
John from California, a young fella, savvy about travel and the internet, wanted to bum a smoke from me.
and tonite, an extended conversation with a guy from Holland. Shot the shit about everything and nothing in particular. Sat on a patio overlooking the terraced hills of rural France. Enchanting.
WALKING
So far, walked a few miles in Paris and a few clicks around here, but the real action starts tomorrow with a 25k jaunt over the Pyrenees. Thanks to Judith, I am getting my backpack sent via courier, so the uphill stuff (worst on the entire trek) shouldn't be so bad.
In short, magical. Enchanting. Those are my adjectives thus far. That might change tomorrow when my aging carcass encounters the Pyrenees, but so far so good.
I'll try to include a picture of St Jean Pied du Porte.
Thanks for listening.





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